From Haunt to Haute: The Brick House Kitchen works to gain footing on Folly Road
Prepared daily, these fresh, down-home desserts such as apple almond bread pudding and pecan and almond butterscotch pies adorn the Brick House's front porch dining area.
By Jacob Flannick
If it weren’t for that brick house on the side of the road, Christopher Thomas would be surfing in Costa Rica right now.
Nestled in the woods along bustling Folly Road, the unassuming Brick House Kitchen quietly beckons passerby to explore their senses. Simple, down-home cooking compliments the establishment’s serene setting. The roughly three-and-a-half acres of trees and open area surrounding the locale, as well as its family-style Mediterranean-oriented cuisine, mimics a rustic island lifestyle.
Owners Crystal and Christopher Thomas eagerly welcome all walks of life into their establishment and are striving to gain a solid reputation among locals. After opening the doors of the Brick House Kitchen on March 18, 2010, this unique dining locale has quickly transcended standard restaurant conventions by offering epic festivals such as October 2010’s Skinful Halloween party, and other enjoyable events one the property’s shade-cloaked premises.
“We’re open to everyone and we’ve been relying on word-of-mouth,” says Christopher. “We want this to be a place where locals come to enjoy good food, friends, family and music.”
Aside from the cozy indoor and outdoor dining sections, the Brick House’s intimate feel is apparent in the back of the house, where Christopher shares the kitchen with his sister, Jennifer, his mother, Chris, and his brother, Kiefer. Accommodating guests in the front of the house is Crystal, accompanied by a small serving staff that works hard to provide a comfortable dining experience. Christopher’s father, Bubba, and grandparents, Connie and Lucy, also assume critical duties at the restaurant.
“It’s how I‘ve grown up,” says Christopher. “How we cook here is how we’ve always done it.”
Veterans of the food-service industry, the Thomas family has contributed to the area’s culinary scene for years. Christopher’s parents founded Charleston’s first vegetarian restaurant, Angelfish, in 1985. Aside from constructing Folly Beach’s Surf Bar, the family also owned Sun Spot, a former restaurant on Folly Beach where Snapper Jack’s is now located.
Christopher’s parents acquiring the alluring Brick House Kitchen property in 1992 and for the purpose of creating a tea room.
“I wouldn’t have gotten back into the restaurant business if it wasn’t for this property,” says Christopher.
The locale’s charming facade, however, remains a fleeting glimpse to many of Folly Road’s frequent travelers. Widely held skepticism about the Brick House stems from the property’s obscure history, creating wariness among locals.
“I hear people say they drive by all the time but never turn in,” says Crystal. “People hear about the place, but they aren’t really sure what it is.”
Prior to the Thomas family’s ownership, the building belonged to a local family and also served as a motel for about five years. The property was also left vacant for a number of years, frequented by homeless folk who reportedly caused numerous fires and even knocked down the property’s chimney, according to Christopher. After years of rigorous restoration, however, the establishment has begun developing a distinct reputation.
“We’ve worked hard to get the place to where it is now,” says Christopher. “We’re running on a slow plan — not a get-rich-quick plan.”
The property’s interior and exterior renovation was embraced with environmentally conscious initiatives — a fundamental aspect of the Thomas family’s lifestyle. Recycled, salvaged, and composted materials were used in nearly all of the property’s restoration.
“My family was green way before it was cool to be green,” says Christopher, who cites his family’s creation of the first recycling center on James Island and Folly Beach. “We’re all very preservation conscious.”
The family’s eco-friendly initiatives touch every aspect of the establishment, including the use of eco-friendly tableware, constant rehabilitation of salvageable material and a compost area, as well as a spacious garden resting in the property’s back yard, producing an abundance of fresh herbs and vegetables.
Even the building’s exterior wall along Folly Road was entirely constructed out of wooden doors saved by Christopher’s grandfather from his days in the wrecking business.
“My parents and grandparents never liked tearing things down and believed you should keep what you have,” says Christopher, who relayed his father’s wisdom in expressing the importance of leaving as little of a footprint as possible. “My dad always used to say we should live like Indians.”
Preservation tactics are not the only quality passed down in the Thomas family; distinct cooking traits also run in their blood.
The Brick House’s Mediterranean-based cuisine — a style handed down from Christopher’s Greek grandparents — is coupled with an American eclectic style, offering an assortment of dishes; from sloppy Joes to quesadillas.
“We’re not a meat-and-potatoes type of place,” says Crystal.
Despite an array of dishes offered, the Brick House‘s cuisine is based on simplicity. “I’m not a fancy cook-type person. I like to keep it simple,” explains Christopher, who says the restaurant’s approach is an extension of his mother, who oversees the kitchen. Christopher’s mother, Chris, has full control of the restaurant’s menu and is well-known for her exquisite dessert-making skills. “She’s the puppet master,” Christopher smiles.
The weekly, changing menu allows for constant creativity within the kitchen; however, many creations frequently reappear due to guest requests. Popular dishes like angel hair shrimp, artichoke hearts, and linguine with black beans and egg rolls are regular menu items.
Depending on the week, you’ll encounter dishes like grilled shrimp tzatziki wraps, pan fried salmon cakes, lemon and basil seared tuna, grilled portabello and eggplant parmesan, and fresh arugula salads with avocado, almonds, and honey. Lunch menu prices range from $4 to $10, with dinner menu prices not exceeding $17.
Beyond ‘Restaurant’
The emphasis on the Brick House’s cuisine parallels the owners’ initiatives to create an adventurous and lively atmosphere, with Christopher and Crystal constantly devising ways to expand their property as a unique and ideal event venue.
“We don’t want to develop a one-sided reputation,” says Crystal. “I’d like for this to be a place where people come to do things they wouldn’t normally think of.”
The Thomas’ are happy to host just about any occasion, from wedding receptions to craft workshops. The property’s layout — three interior dining sections, a spacious front porch and outdoor seating, as well as a recently opened, free-standing bar — allows for a high level of creativity.
“There’s nowhere else with this amount of potential,” says Crystal.
“We are definitely not one-dimensional,” adds Christopher. “We’ll try and hold any type of party people want to have.”
This May, the Brick House is hosting an acoustic happy hour with covered and outdoor seating in their courtyard, and live music from 6:30 – 9:30 p.m. on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. The music is free, with the series featuring local artists, as well as occasionally rounding-up local musicians for a jam-session night. They also welcome local non-profits, organizations, and promoters to utilize the venue for events. On Friday, May 27, local Southern soul outfit Gaslight Street will perform at the venue, along with Asheville, N.C. Americana-group Pierce Edens and the Dirty Work. The following week, on Saturday, June 4, Greensboro N.C.’s acclaimed Holy Ghost Tent Revival will headline a show with local group Old You. Both shows are $10 and begin at 7 p.m. (Disclaimer: Folly Current editor Stratton Lawrence is involved in the planning and promotion of these shows).
Beyond music, the driven owners also envision constructing backyard cabanas in the future for guests interested in extended visits, offering a place to stay between Folly Beach and Charleston.
With a firm culinary foundation, the owners’ creative freedom in carrying out their family’s vision foretells a prominent future for Folly Road’s hidden treasure.
“Our family’s dream was left to us, and we can make it whatever we want,” says Christopher. “There’s no where else like this on James Island or Folly Beach.”
Currently, the Brick House hosts an outdoor artisan market from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on the first Saturday of each month. The next market will be held on June 4. A “Boot Camp and Brunch” is also held at 10 a.m. every Saturday.
To check out the Brick House Kitchen’s menu, upcoming events, shows and parties, visit www.brickhousecharleston.com. If you’re interested in booking an event, show and/or party, email Christopher and Crystal at eat@brickhousecharleston.com.
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