The sustainable stone crab provides a rare treat for diners
By Lorne Chambers | editor
It’s a bit of a misconception that local oysters are always and only available in Charleston during months with an “R” in them. In actuality, local oysters are not quite ready to be harvested yet, despite that conspicuous “R” right there the end of September. Oyster harvesting season will officially open again Oct. 1 this year and likely run until mid-May, despite the obvious lack of an “R” in that month’s name. Of course, conditions could warrant shortening or extending the season, based on the water temperature.
According to the South Carolina Department of Natural Resources (SCDNR), because of higher bacterial levels that occur when water temperature is above 80 degrees, oyster harvesting is prohibited during warmer months. The same season applies to clams, mussels, whelks, and other mollusks as it does to oysters.
Nevertheless, this is an exciting time of year for those looking for fresh seafood in Charleston. With oysters, clams, and mussels just around the corner, shrimp baiting season officially opens on Saturday, Sept. 12.
While shrimp are delicious and revered in these here parts, they’re relatively plentiful compared to a slightly more elusive seafood delicacy that can only be found if the diner is willing to seek them out — stone crab claws. Hard to find on Lowcountry menus, stone crabs are sought out by locals and visitors alike who aren’t afraid to spend some serious scratch on these delicious crustacean appendages.
Big in South Florida, stone crabs are less plentiful in South Carolina waters and thus harder to find at local restaurants. At Miami’s iconic Joe’s Stone Crab restaurant, a serving of 1.5-2 pounds of jumbo claws can cost you as much as $90. Even for smaller claws, the price is about $60. But this isn’t Miami Beach, this is Folly Beach and three jumbo claws or five regular claws (approximately 1 pound) will only set you back $18 at Rita’s Seaside Grille on Center Street.
Price isn’t the only barrier to entry for some diners. The stone crab’s hard shell is extremely tough to crack, making it that much more worth it when you finally do get to that sweet crabmeat inside. While Rita’s serves them with your own personal shell cracker, Ryan Therkelsen, a manager at the popular Folly restaurant, recalls the first time he ever ate stone crabs and how he initially couldn’t get into the claws. Someone had the idea of using a trailer hitch as a mallet and he was finally able to get into it. He describes the flavor of the stone crab meat as much sweeter than your normal local blue crab or even the Alaskan snow crabs that tourists dine on at other local seafood establishments.
According to Therkelsen, when the claws arrive at Rita’s from local crabbers, they’re so fresh, they’re literally still moving. He says the chef boils them fresh and serves them simply chilled over ice, with lemon, saltine crackers, and cocktail sauce.
Because only one claw can be removed and the crab must be thrown back, Therkelsen explains that stone crab claws are also a sustainable delicacy. In South Carolina it is unlawful to possess any stone crab body live or dead. The stone crab has the ability to grow back their claws and crabbers are only permitted to remove one claw if the adult stone crab has two claws and the claws must be 2 3/4-inch minimum. But other crabbers aren’t the only potential claw snatchers out there. Stone crabs can lose their limbs easily to escape from predators or tight spaces.
Stone crabs inhabit bays and estuaries where they will hide under rocks and shells. When fully grown they move into shoals just below the low tide mark and dig burrows 12 to 20 inches deep. Found along the Atlantic and Gulf Coasts, Stone crabs are commercially harvested almost entirely in Florida. But there are some local crabbers who are finding decent numbers of stone crabs in Lowcountry waters in recent years. Even still, it remains hard to find stone crabs on local menus, making the hunt part of the thrill for stone crab lovers.
Currently Rita’s is the only place on Folly Beach where you can find stone crabs, unless you cruise up to Crosby’s Seafood and buy them fresh, take them home, and cook them yourself. If they do have them in stock, Crosby’s charges $9.99 per pound for the claws. The thick shell will protect the meat for up to six months in a home freezer, so get them now before they’re gone for the season. But don’t worry, even when stone crab claws completely disappear for the season, October is just around the corner and with it Mother Nature’s bounty of shellfish.
